Traditional Spring Food: Its History and Safe Handling Today

Laura Fox

Did you know the bright eggs youngsters lunge for so eagerly at egghunts represent an ancient promise? That ham for Easter became a tradition because the first hams were ready in early spring on our grandparents' farms? That the contents of Ukrainian eggs with their exquisitely painted shells were originally blown out to "ward off" evil spirits?

The History of Spring Foods

"From ancient times," said Smithsonian sociologist Shirley Cherkasky, "the egg, which carries new life, has been a symbol of hope and renewal." Decorating eggs for spring, then, echoes the new life nature is presenting.

"Easter and Passover are marked by the eating of foods rich in tradition and symbolism," said Cherkasky.

The ceremonial foods in the Jewish Seder or Passover celebration mark milestones in the Hebrew escape from Egypt over 3,000 years ago.

Based on herd-raising patterns, spring lamb was the traditional centerpiece of Easter meals for people in the Mediterranean, as it still is for many Americans of Mediterranean descent today.

The lack of refrigeration probably determined that ham for Easter became traditional for many of us. When most Americans lived on farms, hogs were butchered in the fall so the meat could be safely cured over the cold winter months. The first hams, ready by early spring, were a logical choice for Easter dinner.

That's a very quick history of some of our more common spring foods. Susan Conley, head of USDA's Meat and Poultry Hotline, brings us up to date with this reminder. "It's the sensory aspects of spring foods--the colored Easter eggs, the smell of brisket roasting in the oven, the smoky flavor of ham- -that we like to savor. But what we need to remember is that these special foods also need proper handling."

Food Safety for Spring Foods

Since perishable foods like meat, poultry and eggs can be the source of bacteria that cause foodborne illness, they must be carefully handled. Follow these tips for safe handling.

See the "Safe Handling and Cooking of Easter and Passover Meats" chart for specific guidelines for storing and cooking ham, lamb and brisket.

Buying Ham and Lamb

There are a variety of hams on the market today, so it is important to read the label to know how to handle and cook whatever you buy. For example, some canned hams are shelf-stable meaning they do not need to be refrigerated, but some canned hams do need to be refrigerated. Most lamb purchased for Easter is labeled "spring lamb" or "genuine spring lamb." The term "spring" does not necessarily refer to the season the lamb was born, but to its age (less than a year old) at the time it is sent to market.

When purchased, lamb is covered with a papery whitish membrane called the fell, which should be removed before cooking as it tends to make the flavor of the meat strong.

Cooking Ham, Lamb and Brisket

All meat and poultry should be cooked in an oven set at no lower than 325 degrees F. Lower temperatures may not kill bacteria present in the food.

Another important factor in keeping food safe is thorough cooking. All perishable foods must reach an internal temperature high enough to kill bacteria.

Serving the Passover Seder

This holiday presents some food safety challenges as the entire meal--the brisket, hard-boiled eggs, gefilte fish, matzo ball soup--must be prepared ahead so that everyone can participate in the Seder ceremony.

Solutions? Cold foods can be arranged on platters ahead of time and served directly from the refrigerator.

The brisket can be fully cooked ahead of time in either an oven or crock pot. Slice it and refrigerate in a shallow pan. Thoroughly reheat to serve.

Handling Leftovers

All perishable foods should be refrigerated as soon as your meal is over, but no longer than two hours after removal from the refrigerator or oven.

For ham and lamb, carve the remaining meat off the bone and store it in small, shallow containers in the refrigerator or freeze for later use.

The Egg Issue

Raw eggs, like raw meat and poultry, may be contaminated with foodborne bacteria. Salmonella enteritidis is of particular concern.

Consumers should avoid eating raw eggs or foods containing them. Raw and cooked eggs should remain refrigerated at all times. How does this affect your Easter celebration?

Eggs for an Easter Egg Hunt

Hard-cooked eggs for an egg hunt must be prepared with care to prevent cracking the shells. If the shells are cracked, bacteria from your hands could seep through the shells, contaminating the inside. The eggs should be hidden in places that are protected from dirt, pets and other sources of bacteria. The total time for hiding and hunting eggs should not exceed two hours. The "found" eggs must be re-refrigerated until they are eaten.

Decorating Ukrainian Easter Eggs

Since some raw eggs may contain salmonella, you must use caution in blowing out the contents to hollow out the shell for decoration.

Use only eggs that have been kept refrigerated and are uncracked. Make sure hands and utensils are clean. To kill bacteria that may be present on the surface of the egg, wash the egg in hot water and then rinse in a solution of one to two teaspoons of bleach to a half cup of water. After removing the contents of the eggs, refrigerate them immediately and use within a day or freeze for later use. Be sure to thoroughly cook the eggs.

Raw Egg Frosting for a "Bunny Cake"

Many recipes for bunny-shaped cakes call for using a raw egg white in the frosting. But any time raw egg whites are eaten, there is the risk of salmonella food poisoning.

It's probably wise to find a frosting recipe that uses hot syrup and egg white. If the egg white mixture reaches 160 degrees F on a thermometer, it should be safe.

You may also be able to use a pasteurized powdered meringue available where cake decorating supplies are sold.

"As our knowledge of food safety expands, it is reassuring to know that traditional recipes can be updated, resulting in meals that are both safe and delicious," said USDA's Conley.

Consumers with questions on food safety or nutrition can call USDA's Meat and Poultry Hotline. The number is 1-800-535-4555. Washington, D.C., area residents call (202) 720-3333. The Hotline is staffed Monday through Friday, 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., Eastern time.

Table 1. Safe Handling & Cooking of Easter and Passover Meats

Food Store Cook at 325º F to meat temperature of: Refrigerate Leftovers

Fresh Ham 3 to 5 days in refrigerator 160º F 3 to 4 days

Canned Refrigerated Ham 6 to 9 months in refrigerator 140º F 3 to 4 days

Fully Cooked, Vacuum Packaged, Unopened 2 weeks in refrigerator 140º F 3 to 4 days

Fully Cooked, Wrapped at Grocery Store 3 to 5 days in refrigerator 165º F 3 to 4 days

Canned Ham Shelf-stable 2 years room temperature 140º F 3 to 4 days

Lamb 3 to 5 days in refrigerator 160º F medium
170º F well done 3 to 4 days

Beef Brisket 3 to 5 days in refrigerator 160º F medium
170º F well done 3 to 4 days

Food News for Consumers, Volume 9, Number 1, October 1992, Page 10.

Laura Fox, contributor to "Food News for Consumers," U.S Department of Agriculture, P.O.Box 371954, Pittsburgh, PA 15250-7954.

Table 1. Safe Handling & Cooking of Easter and Passover Meats
Food	Store	Cook at 325º F to meat temperature of:	Refrigerate Leftovers
Fresh Ham	3 to 5 days in refrigerator	160º F	3 to 4 days
Canned Refrigerated Ham	6 to 9 months in refrigerator	140º F	3 to 4 days
Fully Cooked, Vacuum Packaged, Unopened	2 weeks in refrigerator	140º F	3 to 4 days
Fully Cooked, Wrapped at Grocery Store	3 to 5 days in refrigerator	165º F	3 to 4 days
Canned Ham Shelf-stable	2 years room temperature	140º F	3 to 4 days
Lamb	3 to 5 days in refrigerator	160º F medium 170º F well done	3 to 4 days
Beef Brisket	3 to 5 days in refrigerator	160º F medium 170º F well done	3 to 4 days